Page 15 - Boca Club News - July '24

Boca Club News, Page 15
Grape Expectations:

The ABCs of Chardonnay

By Ed Wolfarth, who recently the Chards from Sonoma are more to my taste, lighter quintessential summer wine it is by far (in my humble
moved to South Florida after and more food friendly. Because of its location nearer the opinion) the finest example of a Burgundian Chardonnay–
retiring with his wife, Vicki, as ocean (than Napa), Sonoma wines are good alternatives ie; Montrachet, at a fraction of the price.
Professor of Sports Sciences & to summer fare. Try Chards from; Stonestreet, Chalk Hill, So what have we learned? Chardonnay comes in many
Physical Education at both Queens Simi and my favorite, Hanzell. These wines are usually styles. Climate, soil, topography (terroir) and wine-
College and Hofstra University. He fermented in stainless steel vats (very few in oak barrels) making techniques may produce completely distinctive
is a nationally ranked senior tennis and are excellent accompaniments to grilled fish, salads and different wines. There are oaked versions and Chards
player and long-time USPTA Elite and most barbecue foods. fermented in stainless steel. If you consider yourself an
Teaching Professional. Ed has France. Don’t forget French Chardonnays. A steely “ABCer”, you really need to expand your tastes and try
written many educational and tennis articles in the past. dry Chablis or Pouilly Fuisse are wonderful summer wines the “other” Chardonnays.
Over the past few years, Ed has turned his hobby of wine with less weight and pleasant acidity. Your local wine Happy drinking.
collecting into a way of continuing his passion for writing merchant should be able to suggest one at an affordable
and has written on the subject for publications. As a self- price. Remember, these wines should be drunk fairly
proclaimed “wine snob,” he has collaborated on many young, even though some Chablis can age for years and
wine lists for private clubs and a few restaurants. Ed can still be exceptional. Beware of older vintages when,
be reached at wolfarthe@msn.com. sometimes, the wine has lost its ‘zip’ and its freshness. Of
The “ABC” (anything but Chardonnay) crowd has it course, we cannot dismiss the great white Burgundies of
all wrong. I like to think that Chardonnay wines are like France, such as Montrachet, Mersault and Corton. These
chicken. There’s broiled chicken, southern fried chicken, are more serious whites, often aged in French oak barrels.
chicken cacciatore, chicken wings, chicken Francaise–you Italy. Recently, I’ve become a fan of Italian Chards. Seek
get the picture. Chicken is a blank palette. It all depends out slightly oaked Dreams from Jermann. Definitely look for
on how it’s prepared and what is added, much like the Bramito from Umbria. This Chardonnay has seen a bit of oak
Chardonnay grape. but spent more time in steel vats. And if you can find it, my
If you have ever tasted an Italian Chardonnay or crisp, current favorite is Cantina Terlano. The combination of fruit
dry Chablis from Burgundy, you would never compare and acidity makes for a beautifully balanced wine–mine and
them to an oaky California Chardonnay. Most wine Judith’s favorite (our drinking pal).
drinkers would think they were completely different wines Australia. In Australia, especially Western Australia,
made from different grapes. The truth is that most wines, some of the finest crafted Chardonnays are being produced.
and their grape varietals, always taste differently. It all Look for almost any Chard from The Margaret River
depends on the terroir (climate, topography and soil) and Valley. Cape Mentelle should be readily found. Vasse Felix
wine-making techniques. Winemakers are like chemists. is outstanding but not exported here often. Try ordering it.
They have the ability and latitude to craft their wines. The Leeuwin, although a bit pricey, is easily found and often
way they are fermented, the amount of time in oak barrels regarded as Australia’s finest Chardonnay. Look for the
etc., are all variables that make each wine distinctive Art Series. For a “house or party wine” that’s affordable,
and representative of the region they come from and the you can’t go wrong with Lindemann’s Bin 65 for less than
specific winemaker and producer. Allow me to suggest a $10 a bottle.
few Chards (we’ll shorten it here for our purposes) you New Zealand. In New Zealand, definitely seek out
might want to try this summer. Kumeu River. This producer makes one of the finest
California. While I’m not a big fan of the old-style, versions of expensive French Burgundy. Definitely one
oaky Chardonnays from the Napa Valley in California, of my favorites. While this oaked version may not be a

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