Page 16 - Boca Club News - November '24

Page 16, Boca Club News
Grape Expectations: Merlot

By Ed Wolfarth, who recently wines tend to be more acidic than Cali wines and are Washington State – Merlot is one of the most planted
moved to South Florida after medium bodied with a bit less alcohol. Look for Shinn red wine varietals in the U.S. In Washington, where dry
retiring with his wife, Vicki, as Estate Nine Barrel Reserve, Channing Daughters Syrah/ sunny days followed by cool nights, produces wines
Professor of Sports Sciences & Merlot blend, Duck Walk Reserve Merlot, Lieb Family that attain beautiful acidity, brightness and balance. The
Physical Education at both Queens Cellars Bridge Lane and Lenz Estates Selection Merlot, Columbia Valley is home to some of the most reputable
College and Hofstra University. which has often been compared to some of the finest appellations including Yakima Valley, Walla Walla Valley,
He is a nationally ranked senior French Merlots. Horse Heaven Hills and Red Mountain. Warmer areas like
tennis player and long-time USPTA France – In Bordeaux, Merlot is one of the primary Red Mountain deliver power and concentration while cooler
Elite Teaching Professional. Ed has blended grapes along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet climates like Horse Heaven Hills produce wines of nuance
written many educational and tennis articles in the past. Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. While all Bordeaux wines and complexity.
Over the past few years, Ed has turned his hobby of wine are blends, Merlot is most prevalent on the so-called Right Many years ago (a little aside here) we were dining at Sonia
collecting into a way of continuing his passion for writing, Bank, where it is often blended with small amounts of Rose, a now defunct boutique restaurant in Chelsea. Their
and has written on the subject for publications. As a self- Cab Franc to make the famous wines of St. Emilion and house red wine was a fabulous Merlot. I asked the owner to
proclaimed “wine snob,” he has collaborated on many Pomerol. You may have heard of Chateau Petrus. A 100% please bring the bottle. It was a 1983 Waterbrook from the
wine lists for private clubs and a few restaurants. Ed can Merlot from Pomerol that has sold for as much as $3,500 Walla Walla region. We’ve been drinking it ever since!
be reached at wolfarthe@msn.com on auction and has been scored a perfect 100 by wine critics For the deep pocket crowd look for Leonetti, Pedestal,
Shame on you, Paul Giamotta! You single-handedly put and the Wine Spectator. Take that, Paul Giamotta! In St. Northstar and Substance (ME) Merlot. For us more
the sale of Merlot wines back 20 years. If you recall the move Emilion I would search out the vintages of 2015, 2016 concerned with value the best QPR Merlots are: Chateau
Sideways, back in 2005, his character exclaimed “I am not and 2017. For you folks with discretionary funds look for Ste. Michelle, Columbia Crest H-3, Milbrandt and of
drinking any f……n Merlot!” That single line stigmatized Chateau Ausone, Figeac, Cheval Blanc and Chateau Pave course Waterbrook. The 2020, 2021 and 2022 vintages
the wine drinking public for years. It is somewhat true that and Chateau Angelus. For more affordable Right Bank are drinking fine.
back in the ‘90s California was producing a great deal of wines I, in particular, look for Chateau Monbousquet, Cos Whether you like big bold wines with more alcohol
“plonk”–cheap reds made with the Merlot grape. Today, De L’Oratoire, Chateau Sansonne and any 2015 Gran Cru and a long finish or nuanced wines with balance and good
California, Long Island, France and my favorite for Merlot, from St. Emilion. acidity, there’s a Merlot for everyone, even Paul G!
Washington State, are producing world class Merlot in
different styles. The 2020, 2021 and 2022 were excellent
vintages. Let’s take a cursory look at each of them.
California – Like most Cali wines, Merlot here is made
in the “New World” style where grapes are harvested late
to produce inky colored, high alcohol wines with velvety
tannins. California Merlots tend to be lush and exhibit
tastes of blackberries and plum. Recommended producers
for those with unlimited “resources” are; Duckhorn, Lewis
Napa Vamley, Matanzas Creek Sonoma Valley Journey,
Pahlmeyer Napa, Pride Sonoma, and Beringer Howell
Mountain Bancroft Ranch. Remember, these are big wines
meant to be drunk with red meat. For more affordable ones
I recommend Beaulieu Vineyard Napa Valley, Beringer
Howell Mountain, Blackstone and Chateau Souverain.
Long Island – Merlots and Merlot blends produced
here tend to be more European or “Old World” in style.
That is, with earlier harvesting that maintains freshness,
a silky finish and tastes of plum and black cherries. These

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