Page 10 - Martin Downs Bulletin - May '23

Page 10, Martin Downs

traveL

Honfleur: Birthplace Of

Impressionism

Previously submitted by the
late Don Kiselewski, MCC,
D.S., Palm Beach Gardens
Travel Leaders
The town of Honfleur, at
the midpoint on the English
Channel side of the hexagon
that shapes France, is arguably
one of the most picturesque
seaports in all of Europe.
Located in the Calvados
district of the Normandy area
of France, Honfleur has served as an active port since the 11th
century. Because the port is one of the closest to England, with
water access into the center of France, it became a ping-pong The back streets of Honfleur Port of Honfleur
ball during the Hundred Years’ War from 1337 to 1453. The
last period of English occupation was from 1418 to 1450.
The period between the 16th and 19th centuries brought
prosperity to the town due to trade with North America
and the East Indies. The town also served as a point of
departure for many trips of exploration. As I’m sure most
Canadians know, it was from Honfleur that the explorer
Samuel de Champlain started a voyage of discovery. In
1608, Champlain sailed to Canada and founded the French
colony of New France (Quebec).
Nestling amongst green hills, Honfleur stands on low
ground between the tidal estuary of the Seine and the plateau
of the Pays d’Auge. It is here that the Seine cuts the coastline
and continues eastward, upstream, to the heart of France.
Across the estuary lies the port city of Le Havre. Over the last
century, Le Havre has gained most of the shipping business
because it is on the north side of the Seine, which doesn’t silt
up, like the south, and allows deeper-draft vessels access.
This lessening in importance, as a port, served as an
advantage to Honfleur. Because of its relative unimportance, St. Stephen’s Church
it was not bombed and was saved from the total destruction the two lies the Château de Falaise, which has stood over
that came to Le Havre, its sister town across the Seine, rampart. The magnificent wood roofs once protected 10,000 the valley since 1027 and is the birthplace of William the
during the Second World War. Le Havre was flattened tons of salt, but now shelter concerts and exhibitions. Conqueror. Traveling east from Honfleur toward Paris is
because of the continued bombing, and today has been Cafés and art galleries, in stone and half-timbered the city of Rouen. It is here that a 19-year-old French girl
rebuilt in concrete, glass and steel, giving it a cold, buildings, cluster around the small harbor, where nets hang named Jeanne D’Arc, who rallied the French and defeated
lackluster appearance. Le Havre may have again outgrown out to dry. The “Lieutenance,” the fortified gate to the town, the British in Orleans, was burned at the stake in the city
the little town of Honfleur, however the old Norman town stands at the entrance to the inner harbor. Just up the hill is the square. She was canonized in 1920, almost 500 years later.
has managed to keep intact its yesteryear charm. Only a Église Sainte-Catherine, France’s oldest and largest wooden So much history, beauty and character permeate the
few years ago, a magnificent cable bridge joined the two church. It was constructed by shipwrights with the skills they Normandy area of France. One finds the locals happy as well
port areas across the estuary, at the mouth of the Seine. possessed in the late 15th century. To put it in perspective, as concerned and interested in others, which is a complete
There are less than 10,000 inhabitants of this quaint about the time that Columbus sailed to America, the roof of reversal from the attitude of the big cities.
village, including the tourists who descend on the area in the building was being completed in the shape of an upside- If you even get close, don’t miss the opportunity to
the summer. Most admirable is the way that the town has down boat hull. Because of limited technical knowledge, the visit Honfleur and the Normandy area of France. It is
retained the character of the periods in which it was built. nave of the church was built from two hulls, placed side by guaranteed to rekindle your imagination of times past,
All of the newer construction (last two centuries) has been side. Today the twin-altered church with columns down the and create a new perspective on the generations of people
well hidden and out of view, leaving the pristine murals center, creating split naves, is still unique. who have lived here, and those that still continue to do so
that have inspired so many artists over the centuries. Even Across the street is the bell tower for the church, which in this beautiful part of the world.
today, artists flock to capture the buildings, harbors and grew up from the interior of the bell ringer’s dwelling. The The late Don Kiselewski wrote from his personal
most importantly, the feeling of Honfleur. 15th-century tower still spires high over the town it has experiences, having traveled in 122 countries and cruised the
Honfleur was “the treasure of the artist” when Eugėne overseen for the last 500 years. oceans, seas and rivers of the world. Palm Beach Gardens
Boudin discovered the tiny harbor village, and gathered Within a 50-mile radius of Honfleur lie historic sites that Travel Leaders, his family owned and operated agency, is
around him the notables of the artist community. In the should also be included in an itinerary. Located somewhat located at Mirasol Town Square, 11360 North Jog Road,
1870s, it was here in Honfleur that the impressionist style of inland and west of Honfleur is Caen, which was the center Building A, Suite 102-6, Palm Beach Gardens. The agency
painting was created. The style is characterized by the bold city behind the beaches at Normandy during World War has been serving the travel needs of the South Florida area for
use of unmixed primary colors and small strokes to simulate II. Still further west, some 150 meters above the waves, over a quarter of a century. Contact them at (561) 694-9696
actual reflected light. Probably the most recognizable artist lies Mont Saint-Michel, the subject of so many photos of or Aussie@PBGTravel.com.
of that era – which contained such notables as Dubourg, the monastery, fortified by the tides of the sea. Between Photos by Don Kiselewski
Dufy, Friesz and Germez – was Claude Monet. Many of
his scenes were captured here in Honfleur, and the northern
bank of the Seine. Honfleur’s Eugėne Boudin Museum has a
wonderful collection of these painters, as well as Normandy
ethnography (headwear, dress and furniture).
There is nothing that matches the feeling one gets strolling
through narrow streets where each turn creates a vision of times
past. Half-timbered construction – centuries old, with wood
and wrought-iron trim – set the true character of Honfleur.
The ominous entrance to the old jail and the stone walls of the
salt house are incomparable. The Greniers à Sel (salt storage
house) was built in the 17th century with stones from the old

Captain’s was established in 1980 servicing
Palm Beach County and is a privately
owned and managed company.
Captain’s is committed to providing
dependable, reliable and professional
ground transportation to and from all
South Florida Airports and Seaports. PBCVH212
To reserve your vehicle:
561-798-2180 or 800-634-7890 www.captainsairport.com