Page 26 - Southern Exposure - March '22
P. 26

Page 26, Southern Exposure

      Travel from page 25                               in an overland river, as the
                                                        dry season begins when the
        Contained within Kakadu National Park are six   water is not replenished. As
      habitats, each with its own unique characteristics. Most   the  flood  plain  begins  to
      dominant are the savanna woodlands, which consist   dry, large areas of water are
      mostly of tall grasses and eucalyptus. Appearing lifeless   trapped, forming ponds and
      and monotonous, these areas actually support a greater   lakes that the Australians
      variety of plants and animals than anywhere else in the   call  “billabongs.” Yellow
      park. At the opposite end of the size scale are the monsoon   River billabong is the
      forests, which are only found in small isolated patches.   largest in the park. Here
      Fruit-eating birds and flying foxes keep these areas’ plants   is where the crocs and
      linked together by dispersing pollen and seeds as they   waterbirds gather as the
      move about.                                       dry  season  continues to
        Plants and animals not found anywhere else in the world   evaporate the water from
      are located in Kakadu’s unique southern hills and ridges.   the billabongs.
      The  unusual  diversity  of  this  area’s  habitat  is  created     Almost 500 square
      by hills with broken ridgelines that have resulted from   kilometers are tied up
      millions of years of erosion. Stone country is still another   in the tidal and coastal
      diverse area of the park’s east side. The Arnhem Land   flats on the northern tip of
      plateau, which adjoins the park and Arnhem Land, is made   the peninsula. Mangrove
      of sandstone escarpments that range in height from 100 to   forests that run through
      1,000 feet. These formations and outcroppings form the   this area are ideal for fish
      caves that have provided shelter to the Aboriginal peoples   breeding, especially the  Twin Falls in Kakadu National Park
      and canvas for their artwork over the millennia.  barramundi, which is the
        Billabongs and floodplains occupy the South Alligator   staple fish of the Aborigine.
      floodplain. The wet season leaves the areas 8 to 12 feet   This water-intensive
      underwater. This fresh water makes its way to the ocean   habitat is internationally
                                                        recognized as being
                                                        significant for migratory
                                                        birds.
                                                          Arnhem Land, named
                                                        after  the  Dutch  ship
                                                        Arnhem that explored the
                                                        territory in 1623, is today
                                                        the northern homeland of
                                                        the Aborigine. Its borders
                                                        have been established
                                                        and a permit, issued by
                                                        the  Aboriginal clan, is
                                                        required to visit and travel
                                                        over the land. Joint tribal
                                                        authorities manage the
                                                        land, attempting to keep
                                                        it in its natural condition.
                                                        Even  when  the  Gagudju
                                                        Crocodile Hotel was built  Tourists stand next to giant termite mounds in Kakadu National Park.
                                                        on the border of Arnhem
                                                        Land, the tribal council dictated its design. The first order   expect, the hotel’s services entrance is at the other end
                                                        was that it be no higher than the surrounding trees; this   of the croc.
                                                        was no problem. However the floor plan generated unique     Jabiru is “the” major town in Kakadu Park. Located at
                                                        requirements. What better place to enter the building than   the border of Arnhem Land, it was constructed to supply
                                                        through the mouth of the crocodile? This leads into the   housing to the foreign workers who came to work the
                                                        croc’s head (lobby). Large exhaust fans have become the   Ranger uranium mine. This facility has greatly slowed its
                                                        eyes, and as you may suspect, the rooms are in the belly   production because of the cost to extract and supply the
                                                        of the beast, looking onto a center courtyard with a pool   ore from this location and the plunging price for uranium
      A jabiru, one of the wetlands birds of Kakadu National Park,   the shape of a croc’s heart. This pool is the only one the   ore. Long before the mine work was even started, the
      Australia                                         park service has considered safe for swimming in all of
                                                        Kakadu and Arnhem Land. By the way, as you might   Travel on page 27

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