Page 21 - Boca Club News - December '23

Boca Club News, Page 21

The Good Life: Dining, Drinks, Destinations

Dining Out: Another Italian Restaurant! Mamma Mia!

By Alan Serinsky of Bocaire establishments. This marketing hype has never impressed me. Straight From the Kitchen: Wisely, our table ordered
Country Club. Hungry Al’s love I’m not one to get excited about importance by association, only three entrees for the six of us. First up was the Chicken
for food started very young. Never but I guess there are those who do. A good example is the fact Parmigiana ($32 H/$39 W) This is truly a Hungry Al staple. I
satisfied with his Mom’s dishes, he that Ernie Els was sitting at the table next to me and it didn’t have to confess, this was one of the best I’ve eaten anywhere
started to cook his way through her make my food taste any better nor improve my golf game. in our neighborhood! The chicken was butter knife tender, the
“Betty Crocker Cookbook.” During The layout of the restaurant hasn’t changed much from mozzarella cheese wasn’t burnt, and the sauce was direct from
the years to follow he spent many the previous dining owners. There’s a large covered outdoor Little Italy. In this case we probably could have opted for the
hours working in restaurants, both dining area, a small cramped bar near the crowded entrance, Whole Portion size.
as server and cook, attending cooking classes and traveling and an unusable bar in the back indoor dining area. Plate number two was the Veal Francese ($34 H/$44 W).
the world in an effort to expand his palette. As a professional There is not much to say about the ambiance, but they Three large medallions of milk-fed veal, dipped in an egg wash,
writer, Hungry Al offers his perspective on current food trends do have white linen tablecloths, comfortable chairs and an cooked to perfection and then perched on a white wine sauce
and guides you through your local restaurant options. excellent wait staff, which is a rarity in Boca. that could have used a few more tablespoons of lemon juice.
Prime Your Appetite: Before I give you the inside scoop For our seafood selection the table agreed to go with the
388 Italian Restaurant by Mr. Sal on the food, I should get the “big” information out up front. Frutti Di Mare ($34 H/$43 W). I’m not a fan of this preparation,
3360 N. Federal Highway The dishes here are enormous–definitely able to feed more and after tonight I might have some company. The mussels
Boca Raton, Florida 33431 than two hungry stomachs. I would certainly recommend you didn’t fare well, the baby octopus were scarce, the linguine
(561) 794-3888 opt for the half portion unless you are thinking of saving some was overcooked, and Hungry M ate all the shrimp.
for dinner the following evening. From the Dessert Tray: After a meal this size, I’m
Food For Thought: Lately I noticed there has been a Since 388 is family-style dining (think Catskills), our table surprised the waiter had the courage to ask if we wanted dessert.
constant flow of new restaurants coming from the Big Apple. was a total share experience. So, Hungry D, Hungry M, Hungry But out of respect for our only Italian at the table, Hungry J,
Many of these popular and long-established restaurants have D #2, Hungry K and, of course, Hungry Al used our serving I urged that we order at least a slice of 388’s Italian Ricotta
found their way to sunny Florida in hopes of luring in a new dishes as though they sat on a Lazy Susan. I can tell you, we Cheesecake ($12). This was probably the only plate that wasn’t
market of hungry eaters. had more than a few spins of our turnstile. oversized, and maybe for a good reason. But somehow the six
Let me see: There’s Gallagher’s Steakhouse (yet to be First up was the Fried Calamari ($32 H/$35 W). We ordered of us managed to equally distribute the cake and promised to
reviewed), Il Mulino’s, Sushi by Bou, Rao’s (in Miami), half-size, but ended up with a full portion. It was beyond colossal order two slices on our return visit.
Harry’s Bar & Restaurant (West Palm Beach), and H&H and could feed a Roman army. I have to say they were the best Check Please: Here’s my take: Mr. Sal understands that
Bagels. The list is long and still growing. I’ve had in a long time. Lightly coated and tender to the teeth, most Boca diners never like to leave a table hungry—although,
Among this list is now 388 Italian Restaurant by Mr. these fresh ocean drifters were definitely a hit at the table. as most good chefs know, there is always a sacrifice when
Sal. If you are having trouble deciding on which Italian Next came the Baked Clams ($19 H/$29 W). I really it comes to quality vs. huge portions. However, taking into
restaurant to dine at this weekend, here’s a new one with wanted to love these, but their preparation seemed to differ consideration this major undertaking, I have to admit that the
an old concept. Remember Buca di Peppo? This almost- from the norm. Usually, the clams are boiled and shucked kitchen and the front house somehow make it work.
forgotten chain restaurant, notorious for family style eating, with the clam meat diced and blended with breadcrumbs and What I do know is that 388 will be a perfect recommendation
is making a comeback. herbs. Unfortunately, this version left the clams intact in the when the family comes to town. It’s also perfect for take-
I must give credit to these restaurateurs that they understand shell, making my fork a bit of a challenge to dislodge without out, especially if you have no dinner plans for two nights.
their dining demographics. In Boca there will always be an relocating my clam topping to the plate. As for our overall rating, it’s a mixed bowl. Taking into
ongoing cuisine debate of quantity vs. quality. I, Hungry Hungry D is not likely to ever leave a salad off of her menu consideration that they have been open for only
Al, still stand on the side of the latter. But those who have selection, so the table decided to go with 388’s Chopped Salad several weeks, we are spooning out 3-½ pasta
a gluttonous appetite will not be disappointed with the plate ($22 H/$27 W). It’s hard to get a salad wrong. In this case all noodles for quality and five bowls of spaghetti for
portions here at the 388! the ingredients were present and chopped perfectly. I would their hulk-eating size portions!
First Impressions: First, the folks here at 388 are not new have gone with the addition of salami and cheese (extra $4), if
to the business. Their other location in Roslyn Heights, New asked. Also, the dressing was a little over-handed with balsamic
York, has been a successful dining venue for years. They also vinegar. I prefer red wine vinegar on an Italian salad. But then
pride themselves in having numerous celebrities visit their again, I’m not Italian!
Grape Expectations: My New Year’s Resolution…and Yours!

By Ed Wolfarth, who moved to wines at affordable prices. And that, my friends, could be Typicity in wine has become a virtuous thing. It’s simply
South Florida after retiring with his your New Year’s resolution! easily recognized. FYI, sommeliers do not like Kim Crawford
wife, Vicki, as Professor of Sports Lately, I find myself perusing the on-line wine lists of for that very same reason. It’s over the top.
Sciences & Physical Education at restaurants I’m about to attend. Since I don’t know many Besides the above mentioned, New Zealand is home to
both Queens College and Hofstra of these wines, I do a bit of research to look for value and some excellent Pinot Noirs. While red Burgundies are more
University. He is a nationally ranked interesting wines I need to try. expensive and often unreliable, California Pinots tend to be
senior tennis player and long-time While many wine lists do not include vintages, I always made in a style that suggests more is better–more alcohol,
USPTA Elite Teaching Professional. ask our servers, since vintage variation is another important more fruit, etc., I prefer Pinot from either Oregon or New
Ed has written many educational factor in choosing a wine. I have found some upscale steak Zealand. Look for Craggy Range, Amisfield and Nobilo Icon.
and tennis articles in the past. Over the past few years, restaurants switching vintages on their expensive Cabs–an Remember the names Otago Valley and Martinborough.
Ed has turned his hobby of wine collecting into a way of unfortunate restaurant practice. In this instance it helps to Single vineyard Beaujolais – yes, Beaujolais! Not the
continuing his passion for writing, and has written on the carry a pocket vintage chart. You usually can’t go wrong nouveau type that comes out every third week of November
subject for publications. As a self-proclaimed “wine snob,” choosing a reliable producer from a good vintage year. but the good stuff, also made from the Gamay grape but
he has collaborated on many wine lists for private clubs and Another consideration is to trust a local wine merchant. vinified in a style similar to the great red Burgundies for
a few restaurants. Ed can be reached at wolfarthe@msn.com In Boynton, I found that the personnel at Total Wines are a fraction of the cost. Look for Kermit Lynch or Georges
It’s that time of year again. The time when we vow to make knowledgeable and extremely helpful. Recently, one of their Dubouef on the label. 2018 and 2019 were excellent vintages.
changes. The time when we often resolve to do something staff recommended a $15 Chianti that would rival any $60 Also seek out Moulin a Vent and Morgon for really age-
new. It might be a bucket list item or starting a new regimen. Brunello, IMHO. Since then, I’ve tried many of their staff’s worthy, silky-smooth wines. Or, Brouilly, St. Amour or
For some it’s losing weight or starting to exercise. As I often recommendations and have never been disappointed. Fleurie for wonderful, food-friendly wines. All for less than
say, addition is easy, subtraction is hard! Allow me to suggest a few wines, producers and vintages $20 a bottle.
Too often, we settle for the comfortable choice: That name you need to try next time you are imbibing. Remember, this Wines from the Pacific Northwest, Washington and
brand of wine, or the Pinot Grigio that has become the default is your New Year’s resolution! Oregon. In Oregon, more specifically the Willamette Valley,
choice of many consumers. Or at a restaurant, we’ll ask our New Zealand wines. Most of us know about their Pinot Noir is king. Lemelson, Erath, A to Z Wineworks, Shea
server to choose a wine for us. This, too, has its inherent Sauvignon Blancs. In the early 1960s, Cloudy Bay put New and King Estate are making fabulous Pinots at affordable
problems. Many wait staff have little wine knowledge or Zealand on the world’s wine map. Now there are dozens prices. All current vintages are drinking well. Also, Ponzi,
may have “hidden” agendas. But if you are willing to step of excellent producers, including: Dog Point, Villa Maria, another fabulous Pinot that sells for around $30, can easily
out of your comfort zone and try something different, trial Starborough and, most notably, the ubiquitous Kim Crawford,
and error and self-discovery will lead you to some terrific all of which give you that distinctive “grapefruit” taste. Grape Expectations on page 22