Page 10 - Boca Exposure - March '23

Page 10, Boca Exposure
Dining Out:

Don’t Upset The Godfather ... Eat Here!

By Alan Serinsky of Bocaire Nothing like more heat for the dining table discussions. insists on having her “greens,” Hungry D selected the
Country Club. Hungry Al’s love Now that The Offer had awakened my cravings for a Heritage’s Red Butter and Micro Green Salad ($16).
for food started very young. good Italian meal, I decided to visit a new restaurant that There’s not much to explain here but to comment that I
Never satisfied with his Mom’s has opened up in Fort Lauderdale with rave reviews. I loved picking off the toasted hazelnuts from her salad,
dishes, he started to cook his know it’s a distance to travel outside of Boca, but good regardless of her sword-flinging fork jabs.
way through her “Betty Crocker food is always worth the trip! Straight From The Kitchen: If you are expecting a
Cookbook.” During the years First Impressions: Just off Sunrise Boulevard and large menu of selected meats and seafood, you will be
to follow he spent many hours Federal Highway is a new, trending neighborhood called surprised that the most menu entrees are either pizzas or
working in restaurants, both as server and cook, attending Flagler Village. This older neighborhood has been pastas. But these pizzas are not your average pie. Based on
cooking classes and traveling the world in an effort to renovated into a chic place to shop and play, sorta like his experience, Chef Rino’s signature Neapolitan 12-inch
expand his palette. As a professional writer, Hungry Al Miami’s Winwood. It’s here that a young chef, Rino pies are a New York style dough utilizing Italy imported
offers his perspective on current food trends and guides Cerbone, opened his first restaurant, Heritage. Chef Rino “00” flour and baked in a 750-degree Marsal oven for an
you through your local restaurant options. comes to his restaurateur skills honestly, as being a young ultimate crispy crust.
working family member of the well-known Pizza Time Keeping to his pledge for fresh ingredients he uses
Heritage operation. If you have ever eaten their pizzas you are well only whole-milk mozzarella cheese slices, hand-crushed
903 N.E. 5th Ave. aware they were one of the best in south Florida. tomatoes, mega-sized basil leaves, a drizzle of olive oil
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33304 According to Chef Rino, the name Heritage is an and a sprinkle topping of Parmesan cheese.
(954) 635-2335 indication that his family recipes from Italy have not been Hungry S and S shared an order of Heritage’s Bucatini
www.heritageftl.com lost in the generations to follow. And to add to the feeling White Clams ($25). I’m personally not a lover of white
of family, the footprint of the restaurant is very small and clam sauce, but if I was this one would win me over. First,
Food For Thought: I just got finished watching a intimate. If you’re looking for a quiet romantic dinner, all the pastas here at the Heritage are made in house. If you
series on Paramount + called The Offer. It’s basically a this is not your spot. Then again, what families are quiet ever have the ambition to make fresh pasta at home don’t
movie about making the movie, The Godfather. If you around a dinner table, especially Italian ones? start with a bucatini. This is a real challenge. Fortunately,
haven’t seen The Offer, do yourself a favor and watch But regardless of its size, you’re going to be very they did a fantastic job with one of my favorite pastas. And
it. Like many gangster movies, there always seems to be impressed with the freshness of ingredients and the Hungry S and S both raved about the clams and clam sauce.
a scene either around a kitchen table, inside an Italian innovative recipes tweaked from his grandmother’s kitchen. Hungry D stayed with the starter menu, ordering an
restaurant, or at a butcher’s chopping block. Prime Your Taste Buds: Our table of starters were Eggplant Parmigiana ($17). There is one thing I do look
If you recall, there is a scene in The Godfather in which selected as a sharable effort so we all could experience for in every preparation of this dish. Is there a defined
Clemenza is making his Sunday gravy. A lot of fanfare this shortlist of choices. One of their signature small plates layering of the eggplant stack? Here the perfectly breaded
goes on about the importance of his recipe. This is not is their Agrodolce Calamari ($25) that’s freshly hand cut, and sautéed vegetable was assembled like the Tower of
uncommon in any Italian family, and in the case of a Mafia lightly dusted and fried with a sweet and sour glaze. This Pisa, with only the sauce leaning off its sides. The richness
family it could actually start a war! This dedication to a Asian treatment is finished off with a charred broccolini, of the gravy and the freshness of the mozzarella cheese
tomato sauce recipe is still being played out in modern red drop peppers and a ricotta salata. only highlighted this classic recipe.
kitchens everywhere. And many of the questions can still Next delivery was a signature dish of their Squash Hungry A, (that’s me) could not resist digging in
be debated. Blossoms ($21). Not found on many restaurant menus, Heritage’s signature pasta dish, Mafaldine Bolognese
Are you using Marzano tomatoes? Did you use enough they are unfortunately an underappreciated appetizer. ($28). For those scratching their heads on the word
tomato paste? Did you infuse the olive oil with the proper These delicate blossoms are fried and stuffed with a “Mafaldine,” I will save you the Google lookup. Known
amount of garlic? Are there fresh herbs in the sauce? Did creamy mascarpone, then perched on a puddle of sweet in Italian as the “little queens” (can’t understand the
it sit on the stovetop and simmer for the correct amount marina sauce and capped off with shaved parmigiano.
of time? And don’t forget to add the hot pepper flakes! As for our plant-based dining companion who always Dining Out: on page 11

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