Page 16 - Boca ViewPinte - March '24

Page 16, Viewpointe March 2024
Lake Bracciano – Getaway For Romans

By Linda Leshnik His creations now are a happy blend of traditional Roman and
Tuscan cuisines.
Rome is always worth a visit. Or is it? After three days Grilled branzino spiced with herbs from their own garden
there last September, my husband and I asked ourselves that and a side dish of ratatouille, a vegetable casserole, was our
question. In one form or another, masses of tourists from all favorite choice from the seductive menu. Herbs and heavenly
corners of the world had full command of the historic center. pungent lemons were grown in their own garden. I was so
Many, many of them trudged about in organized groups, taken by the way Sam uses home grown lemons in almost
squadrons of 20 to 60 people following a blue or green or every dish, that I swore to make more use of them in my own
white raised flag. We constantly had to stop to let them pass kitchen. The olive oil, which plays such a large role in the
and noticed that the stragglers appeared exhausted already cuisine, comes from a grove in nearby Trevignano Romano.
at noontime. When I praised its fragrance and delicate flavor, thinking to
Other visitors, mostly young people, were more buy a bottle, Daniela told me that its production was very
competitive than we were. They didn’t stop. They asserted limited. At the end of the meal she presented us with a small
themselves at blazing speeds on rented bicycles and bottle as well as the recipe for this special ratatouille dish.
motorized skateboards. Cars were scarce. Delivery vans After three days we returned to the madness in Rome,
and the chauffeured black limousines of politicians braved a city we truly love, strengthened by the visit to a place to
the chaos, but the city’s car-owning residents had long since which we will certainly return.
capitulated. A table outside for lunch? Wait! Outside for
dinner? Wait longer! An ice cream? Line up! CICCIO’S RATATOUILLE
After three days we had had enough. Outa here, but (serves 4 preparation time about 15 minutes)
where to? With help from il dottore Google and the advice
of locals we decided on Lake Bracciano. The volcanic lake, Sunset over Lake Bracciano, seen from our B&B window Ingredients:
lies a mere 35 miles north of the Eternal City and is quite 2 red onions chopped
popular with Romans during the summer months. But in On the other side of the 1 eggplant (the long violet one), cubed
mid-September the season was over. On its shore are three old gate is a small piazza. Here 4 zucchini, cubed
small towns - Bracciano, Trevignano Romano and Anguillara we discovered our “go-to” 1 yellow pepper, cubed
Sabazia. We opted for the latter, although all three have a restaurant, a charming place 1 red pepper cubed
long and colorful history. The Etruscans were there until the called “Ciccio”. A short, steep 8 oz. peeled and chopped tomatoes
conquering Romans pushed them out and built their own climb up steps cut into the bare Basil, bay leaf, salt and pepper
villas on the lakeshore, but these too, alas, are now gone. stone and a squeeze past a big, Extra virgin olive oil, 1/2 cup or to your liking
The crowning glory of Bracciano, the largest of the three old reposing dog got us to the Zest of 1/2 lemon
towns, is an imposing castle, built by the powerful Roman flower- filled veranda, with Preparation:
Orsini family in the 15th century. It is one of the finest tables set with white cloths and Cover the bottom of a saucepan with virgin olive oil.
surviving fortified residences in all of Italy. Nowadays the napkins. The owner, Daniela When the oil is warm, add the onions and sauté until they
restored castle serves as a dream venue for lavish weddings Ciccione, greeted us. She and her are wilted
and other grand events. Trevignano Romano, the smallest of husband Samuel had previously Daniela Ciccione, the owner Add the yellow and red peppers and cook until wilted
the three sisters, also once had a magnificent fortress. It was worked for museums as expert of the restaurant Ciccio in Add the eggplant and the zucchini and cook for 2-3
destroyed in the wars between the Borgia and Orsini families packagers of art, works bound for Anguillara Sabazia minutes Add the tomatoes, basil, lemon zest and bay leaf.
in 15th century and now only ruins remain. special exhibitions worldwide. Let everything cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden
From our room in a small B&B in Anguillara Sabazia we The pay was low and the hours long, and so, seven years ago, spoon (important!) When the vegetables are very tender and
had a fine view of the lake with breathtaking sunsets over the couple opened this restaurant. Sam had already completed the tomatoes creamy, add salt and pepper
the water. But the commanding view was from the baroque a course in hotel management. With pride, he explained that he Serve the ratatouille while warm, but it is also nice when
church of Santa Maria Assunta on the summit of a steep hill. had long since learned cooking from his Tuscan grandmother. eaten cold. 
Descending to the lake in a maze of alleys, we spent hours
on leisurely walks on the lakeside promenade, a balm after
noisy Rome, especially since motorboats are banned from
the water. And swimming in the cool waters, which reach a
depth of 525 feet, was more invigorating than any spa.
To reach our B&B, located in the oldest part of town,
we had to pass through the Porta Maggiore, an imposing
gate built of volcanic stone and anachronously topped by a
baroque-styled clock.

The Orsini-Odescalchi Castle, where Tom Cruise and Katie
Holmes tied their knot in 2006

Vicky Marie, cNa/HHa

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