Page 18 - Boca Exposure - December '23

Page 18, Boca Exposure
Dining Out: Another Italian Restaurant! Mamma Mia!

By Alan Serinsky of Bocaire pride themselves in having numerous celebrities visit their an Italian salad. But then again, I’m not Italian!
Country Club. Hungry Al’s love establishments. This marketing hype has never impressed me. Straight From the Kitchen: Wisely, our table ordered
for food started very young. Never I’m not one to get excited about importance by association, but only three entrees for the six of us. First up was the Chicken
satisfied with his Mom’s dishes, he I guess there are those who do. A good example is the fact that Parmigiana ($32 H/$39 W) This is truly a Hungry Al staple. I
started to cook his way through Ernie Els was sitting at the table next to me and it didn’t make have to confess, this was one of the best I’ve eaten anywhere
her “Betty Crocker Cookbook.” my food taste any better nor improve my golf game. in our neighborhood! The chicken was butter knife tender, the
During the years to follow he The layout of the restaurant hasn’t changed much from mozzarella cheese wasn’t burnt, and the sauce was direct from
spent many hours working in the previous dining owners. There’s a large covered outdoor Little Italy. In this case we probably could have opted for the
restaurants, both as server and cook, attending cooking classes dining area, a small cramped bar near the crowded entrance, whole portion size.
and traveling the world in an effort to expand his palette. and an unusable bar in the back indoor dining area. Plate No. 2 was the Veal Francese ($34 H/$44 W). Three
As a professional writer, Hungry Al offers his perspective There is not much to say about the ambiance, but they large medallions of milk-fed veal, dipped in an egg wash, cooked
on current food trends and guides you through your local do have white linen tablecloths, comfortable chairs and an to perfection and then perched on a white wine sauce that could
restaurant options. excellent waitstaff, which is a rarity in Boca. have used a few more tablespoons of lemon juice.
Prime Your Appetite: Before I give you the inside scoop For our seafood selection the table agreed to go with the
388 Italian Restaurant by Mr. Sal on the food, I should get the “big” information out up front. Frutti Di Mare ($34 H/$43 W). I’m not a fan of this preparation,
3360 N. Federal Highway The dishes here are enormous – definitely able to feed more and after tonight I might have some company. The mussels
Boca Raton, FL 33431 than two hungry stomachs. I would certainly recommend didn’t fare well, the baby octopus were scarce, the linguine was
(561) 794-3888 you opt for the half portion unless you are thinking of saving overcooked, and Hungry M ate all the shrimp.
some for dinner the following evening. From the Dessert Tray: After a meal this size, I’m surprised
Food For Thought: Lately I noticed there has been a Since 388 is family-style dining (think Catskills), our the waiter had the courage to ask if we wanted dessert. But out of
constant flow of new restaurants coming from the Big Apple. table was a total share experience. So, Hungry D, Hungry respect for our only Italian at the table, Hungry J, I urged that we
Many of these popular and long-established restaurants have M, Hungry D No. 2, Hungry K and, of course, Hungry Al order at least a slice of 388’s Italian Ricotta Cheesecake ($12).
found their way to sunny Florida in hopes of luring in a new used our serving dishes as though they sat on a lazy Susan. This was probably the only plate that wasn’t oversized, and
market of hungry eaters. I can tell you, we had more than a few spins of our turnstile. maybe for a good reason. But somehow the six of us managed
Let me see: There’s Gallagher’s Steakhouse (yet to be First up was the Fried Calamari ($32 H/$35 W). We ordered to equally distribute the cake and promised to order two slices
reviewed), Il Mulino’s, Sushi by Bou, Rao’s (in Miami), half-size, but ended up with a full portion. It was beyond colossal on our return visit.
Harry’s Bar & Restaurant (West Palm Beach), and H&H and could feed a Roman army. I have to say they were the best Check Please: Here’s my take: Mr. Sal understands that
Bagels. The list is long and still growing. I’ve had in a long time. Lightly coated and tender to the teeth, most Boca diners never like to leave a table hungry—although,
Among this list is now 388 Italian Restaurant by Mr. Sal. these fresh ocean drifters were definitely a hit at the table. as most good chefs know, there is always a sacrifice when
If you are having trouble deciding on which Italian restaurant Next came the Baked Clams ($19 H/$29 W). I really it comes to quality vs. huge portions. However, taking into
to dine at this weekend, here’s a new one with an old concept. wanted to love these, but their preparation seemed to differ consideration this major undertaking, I have to admit that the
Remember Buca di Peppo? This almost-forgotten chain from the norm. Usually, the clams are boiled and shucked kitchen and the front house somehow make it work.
restaurant, notorious for family-style eating, is making a with the clam meat diced and blended with breadcrumbs What I do know is that 388 will be a perfect recommendation
comeback. and herbs. Unfortunately, this version left the clams intact when the family comes to town. It’s also perfect for takeout,
I must give credit to these restaurateurs that they in the shell, making my fork a bit of a challenge to dislodge especially if you have no dinner plans for two nights. As for
understand their dining demographics. In Boca there will without relocating my clam topping to the plate. our overall rating, it’s a mixed bowl. Taking into consideration
always be an ongoing cuisine debate of quantity vs. quality. Hungry D is not likely to ever leave a salad off of her menu that they have been open for only several weeks,
I, Hungry Al, still stand on the side of the latter. But those selection, so the table decided to go with 388’s Chopped we are spooning out 3½ pasta noodles for quality
who have a gluttonous appetite will not be disappointed with Salad ($22 H/$27 W). It’s hard to get a salad wrong. In this and five bowls of spaghetti for their hulk-eating
the plate portions here at the 388! case all the ingredients were present and chopped perfectly. size portions!
First Impressions: First, the folks here at 388 are not I would have gone with the addition of salami and cheese
new to the business. Their other location in Roslyn Heights, (extra $4), if asked. Also, the dressing was a little over-
N.Y., has been a successful dining venue for years. They also handed with balsamic vinegar. I prefer red wine vinegar on

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